There is no reason not to enjoy good tea! When steeped properly with the right teaware, good teas can give us their full potential. Different materials present distinctive variations in the resulting tea brewed; a basic understanding of these materials is important. In addition, the shape and design of the vessels also make a tremendous difference in how the tea tastes.
Last month, we talked about Yixing Zisha and how it enhances the steeping of oolong teas. At the opposite extreme are materials like cast iron and other metals that are inappropriate for any teas. Cast iron tetsubins were meant for bearing only hot water in Japan, and they retain heat well. When used for tea however, the sealant lining the inside surface wears out from the acidity of the brewed leaves within months, imparting a metallic taste to your tea. Its retention of heat also can over-cook the tea and is highly inappropriate for delicate green teas, which, ironically, are the teas most often brewed in tetsubin.
A much more appropriate material for delicate green teas is porcelain. After all, the colonial West used the term “China” for the ceramics originally coming to Europe and America from Asia, and even used the same term for the imitation porcelains that were ultimately produced in Europe (ever wonder why you have a China cabinet?). Bone white ceramics are considered the epitome of Chinese porcelain expertise. In particular, in an area called Jingdezhen, the thinnest, almost translucent, non-porous porcelains were produced, much to the astonishment of the West (and an envy that ultimately inspired the creation of a porcelain industry in Germany, France, Holland and England). Fired at high temperatures, and bluish white, porcelain gaiwans and teacups are perfect for steeping and appreciating almost all types of teas. Releasing heat and cooling easily, the opposite of Yixing Zisha, a porcelain gaiwan is the vessel of choice for delicate teas, though its thinness is a bit more challenging to handle for teas that require a higher temperature, like oolongs and black teas. Fine white porcelain cups allow us to best judge and appreciate the true color of the liqueur of the tea. Was that cup of Pu-Erh dense and muddy, or was it pitch black with a buttery viscosity and a ring of dancing light? One indicates poor quality Pu-Erh, the other, a true aged one. And with steeping delicate green teas, every second counts. Being able to judge the color of the brewed tea in order not to over-steep is only possible in a crisp white porcelain gaiwan.
Fine white porcelains from Asia are often decorated on the outside with symbols that are cultural icons and not easy for most of us to understand, but are meaningful for collectors. For example, flowers such as peony, plum blossom, and chrysanthemum are very commonly painted. When you use or give a gift of a cup with a painted plum blossom, you are signaling that strength of character is the most prized value. Peonies symbolize wealth, and chrysanthemum, longevity. Bamboo leaves appear on teapots as well as cups, and that is a symbol of education as well as humility, because it takes humility to become educated. Pine trees represent longevity and strength, the pine needles alive and vibrant even deep in winter snow. Symbols from nature are often endowed with meaning and are understood subtly between giver and recipient, host and guest, and amongst friends enjoying tea together. Personally, I like to collect teaware with landscapes or lions. The first remind me of the grandeur of the tea mountains I have visited, and the lions are often painted with great energy and vitality, often parallel with the energetics of tea itself.
Glazed stoneware vessels are also prized for teaware. A particularly fine glaze called celadon was invented in the Song dynasty, roughly around the 10th century, to resemble the quality of jade. Jade was the emblem of the emperor; and the common people, though highly enamoured with jade, were forbidden to use it. Thus, a glaze was invented that would assume the soft, sophisticated quality of jade, glowing from within, and gently absorbent of light. The Chinese ceramicists were not content with appearance; they further developed this glaze into a particular texture called “sheep’s oil,” a buttery and slightly thicker glaze. A natural crackle is invisible until many steepings of tea stain the cracks into a lively pattern. When tea is steeped in these sheep’s oil celadon vessels, particularly green teas like dragonwell, some of the chestnut undertones are somehow released though these are lost when the same tea is steeped in glass teapots. The more floral and fragrant Taiwanese oolongs will give up more of their softer, vibrant vegetal and fresh floral notes. Try it for yourself! A finely made sheep’s oil celadon is not only beautiful to behold, it is an appealing material to elicit some of the most subtle qualities of fine teas.
In the world of tea ceramics, porcelains are cool, impartial judges, while glazed stoneware such as celadons embrace and sometimes bring out the best of what each tea can offer. You be the judge which serves your tea best. Whatever materials or symbols and artwork you choose, not only are they highly reflective of your own taste and judgment, but they may also express your most important values. My favorite vessel of choice? A porcelain gaiwan, painted with lotus flowers, revealing a pristine purity despite the muddiness from which they grow, a symbol of enlightenment emerging from ignorance. That inspiring thought completes my perfect cup of tea.
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