The lodge we stay in is the only one in town so we had no choice. But with a 360 degree view of all of Tung Ting mountain and run by a very eccentric pottery master, it was part art gallery and part pottery studio as well. The strangest combination of a hospitality business that feels more like someone was doing you a favor by letting you stay, and the payment? Better understand and appreciate the pottery!
That, I can do.
Arrived at peak of Tung Ting village in the late afternoon. It is more run down than ever. Mrs Su was buzzing around busy as usual. She did not come out to greet the tour group, or walk around the mountain peak to show everyone around, nor even pour us tea when we arrived. I was not the least bit inquisitive, offended, nor surprised. Knowing her for so many years, pretty much there is few misunderstandings. Understanding her character so well, I would never insult her by underestimating her.
Sure enough, at dinner, her husband arrives at our lodge with an incredible pot of delicious young bamboo shoots, made vegetarian especially for me. She had been out all day harvesting the shoots, knowing we were coming and that I love her bamboo shoots. I didn’t need to communicate one word. And at the end of the day, someone asked if I ever buy Tung Ting oolong from anyone else. My answer was, why would I ever need to?
The Station Master, as he was called, was in the process of evaluating some samples sent in by different farmers from some outlying farms. The purpose was to obtain feedback, to get the Station Master’s opinion on what they need to do to improve. Was the wilting done properly? Etc.
The tasting standard was rigorous. 6 minutes steeping time, 6 minutes more before smelling the leaves, then 6 more minutes before tasting the cooled tea.
The main function of the research institute? State of the art machinery to test for pesticide residue, about 251 different ones. Spot checking the farmers. Fining derelict farmers 15,000 Taiwanese dollars per offense.
The ‘new’ varietal is Ruby 18, and 19 and 20 are for wulong development. Ruby 18 is for black tea (hong cha), and 80% oxidized. The tea is malty, with burnt sugar aroma. A bit woody, a bit harsh. Not quite the gongfu black tea I am used to, not quite ready for prime time, in my humble opinion….
One of the traveller’s spouse gave her a pack of cards to be opened each day. Yesterday’s card was this one. She had researched ahead of time but did not know what a ‘leaf hopper’ was, but her version of it was enough imaginative hilarity….
Miss Lin, the super woman tea master of Taiwan Beauty says -’ for almost 80 years we have all been trying to adhere to new agricultural standards- organic , etc. But all that means is that we are constantly just defending that we are clean. There is nothing about quality.’ An excellent point that I hope American consumers can hear. She has converted her farm to the motto’ Returning to Our Roots’ ( pun!) -ancient ways of communing with nature and observing and working with how the tea plants respond to nature. For example, they dig to see how deep the roots can grow (1 meter deep for these small bushes!) if they train it not to rely on irrigation. The tea bushes are super tough plants. They will grow really deep roots for water if they can’t get them on the surface. As a result , her bushes can weather draught or heavy typhoons. Overly cared for bushes with adequate irrigation? The roots do not grow deep and they die at the first sign of weather change.
I guess that’s true of people too, whether one has built one’s character to tough out all situations and adversities….
Taiwan Beauty wilting in the sunroom for 12+ hours. These are some guaranteed award winners as Miss Lin often does a clean sweep. If only my house can smell like baking tea leaves all day….