
Jade Girl Peak, the symbol of Wuyi.

Not a bad way to spend the morning, gently floating down the Nine Bend River, egrets and dragonflies over head, sparkling sun on the red eyed fishes, scholars’ inscriptions on vertical rocks

Tasted through 10 varietals to choose 3 that we will carry this winter. Old Grove Shuixian came out tops, with a thick, viscuous, velvety texture and a spicey saltiness, full of aggressive fire atop delicate orchid flowers. The Water Golden Turtle came in a close second. Wuyi teas are about texture, smoothness, layers of complexity. There is nothing entry level about these masculine, intense, demanding teas.

What is this? District 9? Aliens attack….tea leaves? Just a big locust getting roasted in the tumbler and holding onto dear life. Apparently, tea is popular amongst exo or endoskeletals alike….

One of the production secrets of Wuyi Oolongs, and more particularly, Mr. Zhang’s method, is to blow bamboo charcoal heat into a fan that sucks the hot air and circulate into the tumbler of raw leaves, to dry, stimulate oxidation, and force the water ducts in the leaves to push the aromatic oils to the edges. I have never seen this method used in any other oolong production. This low level heat requires a lot of labor still- a dedicated worker to continuously toss the leaves to prevent scorching and combustion. Green apple fragrances fill the space.

Early morning hike to one of the peaks of Mr. Zhang’s farms. They were machine cutting the fall/winter crop today, the last day of tea production. 100% hand harvesting is rare nowadays at Wuyi, with not enough hands and very short harvest schedule. These ‘machines’ were just really a big motorized clipper with a large sack in the back, and the longer extra leaves are simply sorted out later. The climb was steep through the forest, and the harvested leaves must be ran down the mountain by foot, and fast, to prevent wilting. The air today was crisp and clear and scenery beautiful and the creek water sweet and clean. Wuyishan is a paradise for tea, after all.