Tea Adventures

Getting by China takes quite a bit of patience, willingness to…

Getting by China takes quite a bit of patience, willingness to waste time, not to ask too many questions, like why. Why are things so inefficient, why are there guaranteed delays on flights, why do people smoke two to three cigarettes at a time with one hand, why is duck neck a popular delicacy, why do people throw trash everywhere, why is it constantly necessary to be spitting.
I had my travel gin flask with me just in case these questions pop into my head, the flask courtesy of our neighbors, Mulholland Leather. Just small enough to board planes.

To avoid drinking the worst alcohol known to mankind called Bai Jiu白酒, I treated the local Party Secretary (V I Position) and some other government officials to my gin one night. They’ve never had gin, but thought it smelled like the oil of juniper trees. I said, precisely…. Tea people really have taste buds despite all the cigarettes. Such important local government officials are all close family members of Mr. Lin so needless to say, whatever he needs to get done, will get done. Why did he give up his medical practice, I asked? The village is not populous enough, everyone’s healthy, he had little business as a doctor, he said. All the tea drinking meant little work for a doctor? Incredible.

As tea buyer, I usually taste over hundreds of lots of each tea….

As tea buyer, I usually taste over hundreds of lots of each tea. I am here for the Tieguanyin, but also must procure Yellow Gold, approve various other customs teas, and evaluate new stuff, like Gold Guanyin made in the manner of Big Red Robe/ Da Hongpao. Except it was far superior, believe it or not. Not having a name yet, this was another one of Mr. Lin’s inventions. I told him let’s name it Golden Robe. It will be our latest greatest favorite this year that I will be proud to introduce,not only because of its quality, but because odd Mr. Lin, whom I have known for almost 10 years but have never tried his tea, turned out to be a prolific tea maker. He improved the Gold Guanyin by leaps and bounds. Then I found out he was actually a physician. Good thing. I’ve been sick as hell this whole trip such as never before.

The village mayor and his wife, a very nice woman who live in the…

The village mayor and his wife, a very nice woman who live in the palace next door. The mayor was informed by Mr. Lin that we are working on a project converting one of his high mountain farms into 生態 Shengtai, sort of like organic but better, that is, with sheep dung fertilizer, and not allowing even perimeter spraying on neighboring vegetable gardens. The mayor readily gave his blessings, heard that this tea will be exported to the US by me, looked me over, and then offered me a cigarette.

Old tea making equipment has been left here in the fortress….

Old tea making equipment has been left here in the fortress. Shown here are the wooden roller for shaping, the basket that they suspend in the air with the pole in the middle for rocking the leaves, and the charcoal pit where the wok is placed for firing the tea. Mr. Yan says in this village, the custom is that the tea master has to place an egg under each armpits when he tosses the leaves on the wok, which meant his arms must move fast, light, and in small circular motions. If the eggs fall off the armpits, that meant the motion was wrong and the leaves were charred. How I wish I could train our bartenders the same way at Teance! More seriously, how I wish I could see this in action.

Finding more and more pieces of forgotten history here at Che…

Finding more and more pieces of forgotten history here at Che Shi, one of the pivotal founding villages of Tieguanyin( should I start a travel blog? But no one goes to places I go….). This is the oldest, and very first, structure in the village, a mud ‘fortress’ with over 90 rooms. Up until last year, 15 families lived there and made tea in there. Why such a formidable fortress in a farm village? Apparently, banditry, a big part of Chinese history few historians bother with, was a daily concern for the common people. The first settlers here, some 600 or more years ago, needed to defend themselves because as we know, then and now, the authorities serve only to intimidate, tax, force bribes, and act in as many manners of injustice they can. Poor farmers face double banditry, from authorities as well as outlaws. So they built a great big impenetrable stone and mud fortress and lived together like a commune.

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