I won’t post all the secrets of Zhengshan Xiao Zhong processing here, but suffice to say, the original style was to use pine wood for wilting as well as bake drying, and the smoke was to be a characteristic that enhanced the plumy sour note, rather than completely smother it like it is currently made for export. Somehow, like bad Chinese food, there is a toxic and undrinkable version that foreigners thought were Lapsang Souchong- made with latter processing, added pine smoke in the charcoal firing process. It is not a version that the locals drink, at all. In fact they are highly offended by it, since that version of Lapsang is not made with their own tea leaves but inferior outside black tea. They would never ruin their precious wild harvested tea with this process!
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