The university tea majors come to intern at Mr. Zhang’s farm but he refuses. They only have theoretical and book knowledge, he says; then they attempt to lecture him. ‘Even worse, have you seen the tea books?’ I said I understand the sentiment. I can not bear to look at the books we carry at our teashop; if we did, we wouldn’t carry them and there will be no tea books for sale. I am referring to English tea books. Most Chinese tea books are at least accurate, if only too superficial for a dedicated tea master like Mr. Zhang. The tea books in English, now that’s painful. The authors don’t even try to get close to accuracy before they race to write a book. But here I rant bitterly again!

It’s really important how the stems are understood, said Mr. Zhang, for example. The stems carry the water that pushes the flavor and aromas out to the edges of the leaves. If the leaves are not dried quickly and properly without breakage，the water in the stems swell and flood and have no where to go. Properly dried leaves allow the 走水 water exit to be successful, swelling the veins in the backs of the leaves. All of this is entirely by very attentive, experienced handling. Mr. Zhang has a different specialist at every stage of production.
The interns, he said, has screwed up every batch of tea ever made, because of thinking that book learning was sufficient, and no one has told them about vital procedures like water exiting. He does not allow them back.

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