
At Kitanoji Temple monthly market, with everything from street food to antiques to textiles of every weave and embroidery.

At Kitanoji Temple monthly market, with everything from street food to antiques to textiles of every weave and embroidery.

Nagatani-San, the founder of Sencha, who was elevated to kami/diety status, the official tea god of Uji- discovered a way to make quality Sencha in the 1700s, and the landscape of Japanese tea was changed forever. It took him 15 years to figure out how to remove the bitterness from the tea leaves by studying how the farmers remove the bitterness from the persimmons when they are making hoshigaki. Carefully rolling the leaves in heated troughs into needle shapes, it would take 5-6 hours to make 500 gms. And it would sell for what is today, 70,000 yen per 100gms- or $600 for ¼ lb! Only the richest merchants can afford the leaves, and after they finish drinking the tea, the second tier merchants would dry the leaves and then drink them again. And then….. The poor samurai class would get to drink the leftovers after that.

Not exactly Nebuta festival but here at the Manga Museum, the tour group gets exposed to the 70 years of rich manga culture as well as what ‘kawaii’ means! Only in Japan can cute and profound meet, and in the world of manga, an unlimited expression of everything that’s on anyone’s mind or imagination can be found. That explains the little cartoon signs in front of 600 year old temples, the appeal of Hello Kitty, and the now worldwide phenomenon of manga culture. Super heroes they may not be- the majority of manga is in the struggle of everyday life and issues.

Wee! Tea leaves! The kawaii culture in Japan is amusing for some and annoying to others. I personally find the juxtaposition of the austerity of wabi sabi to the cute cartoon culture, quite charming.

The problem with quality, is that it is a singular and lonely road. You can keep striving for another higher level, just to look back and realize you are by yourself and not many people in your wake. Everything about quality means a deep, rich experience you offer others that you have given blood, sweat, and sometimes years for. But when others are not at a level to appreciate what you do, then how can your quality be of service to others?
Not that Marukyu Koyamaen has that problem. For the last 300 years, they have maintained their status and quality as the finest matcha in Japan. As recent as this generation, they have won more first place awards- or not, when they are the judges. It’s just that the perfection that is their matcha, and the levels they achieve, can not be understood by mere Chanoyu tea ceremony (mistranslation! Not ceremony, according to Mr. Koyama),nor matcha consumption for health. That sophisticated ratio of shibumi, umami, and amami sweetness, along with intense kaori (fragrance), is not something a philistine can argue about. And so, my tour group catches a glimpse of the richness and expertise that a family took to master over 300 long years- why, longer than US history! …..and with that Occidental viewpoint, one will never understand tea.

In Kyoto, Japan, home of the samurai and the best artisan crafts. These guys in the tour are out of control, they are having way too much fun. I had these deep intentions of setting the tone and showcasing the culture and food that makes the tea special. Zen and the art of living! Everything was special to these guys- the custard tofu! The lacquer ware! The artful displays! The stunning gardens and temples! And yes, now they understand how the tea fits in, in the world of aesthetic, gourmet, everyday down to earth food. But, the repercussions have just began. Various group members are discussing not going back to the U.S. And some are just angry that the food in the U.S. are just too far away from good. Even the 7-elevens are have awesome rice balls, against what, Doritos in the U.S.? It’s a wonder how great living standards can be when you are not wasting money on Drones and Missiles…. Make rice balls, not bombs?