Oolong Tea

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What do you want the Americans to know most about your teas, I…

What do you want the Americans to know most about your teas, I asked Mr. Zhang? He being easily one of the most uncompromising tea artisans I know, I prefaced by saying that Americans are trained on mass produced black teas with cream and sugar so don’t expect too much. Mr. Zhang replied that Wuyi teas have the strongest body and an intensity that will get better with age, as opposed to light fragrance oolongs-sissies, to them. Their long 6 month charcoal roasting process is extremely demanding xtreme-tea-making, and no other tea in the world requires this much knowledge and expertise in its processing. Appreciate its depth, its thickness, its mouthfeel, palate fragrance, the 20 steepings. I think the most expensive tea we carry are now Mr. Zhang’s Wuyi oolongs. For me, it’s the last frontier and contribution to our mission at Teance of introducing the world’s best teas. Mr. Zhang does not need more demand for his teas though. Selling out just to the local connoisseurs are a matter of course. Taking years to introduce the tea to Americans, traveling 10,000 miles at a time- people do wonder about me a little. Here I pause and wonder why I bother, but tomorrow, I’ll head out to another farm again regardless. Sometimes there’s really no reason for doing something worthwhile.

The strongest tea in the universe, the 12,000 RMB (about $1950…

The strongest tea in the universe, the 12,000 RMB (about $1950 USD per lb), Rougui oolong from the Cow Fence Enclave. Yes, that’s the name of the most sought after micro-terroir of the Main Cliff 正岩 of Wuyi region. There was a little enclave in one of the vertical cliff areas, a farmer discovered that he could force his cows up there but they can’t come down and run off easily, a natural cow fence. So per serving is what, about $30? What a steal! Lasts about 20 infusions, so my per sip cost just went down to 45 cents! Well, math geniusness aside, I have the Communist government crackdown on corruption to thank. This leader grade stuff was never before accessible to commoners. Strong, aggressive, thick viscosity like broth, and stamina through all 20 infusions- this is the boxing champ of teas.

Still seething from the plagiarism of my story on the Phoenix Ya…

Still seething from the plagiarism of my story on the Phoenix Ya Sai on this blog, I asked Mr. Zhang about the massive amounts of fake Dahongpao out there. Why, there is cheating at every level! Sometimes the tea pluckers will harvest your top mountain raw leaves but will turn in low mountain stuff. They look the same as raw leaves but once they are roasted, huge differences are obvious but too late. Outside producers will come in and open a production factory, registering with local authorities and even pass inspection. But the tea they make as Dahongpao? Not even close to being from this region. And what about the real tea from this region generically called Dahongpao? Blends of generic Wuyi low mountain stuff. No clear discernible taste of a single varietal. Blending is a cuss word here in Wuyishan, conjuring up wicked mercenary merchants. Telling a real story and selling fake tea is what the Chinese called ‘hang a sheep’s head but selling dog meat’, referring to bait and switching. That is clearly the folks mentioned in the Forbes article. I forget the name of that tea company. Real story, fake stuff. Happens everywhere, starting from the source! Mr. Zhang and I, zealous tea people, won’t let that stop us. What are you doing with those Tea University interns? Still turning them down for internship there? ‘Of course, ’ he said. ‘’Wage war on paper’, is another favorite Chinese saying. They are not fit to make tea, but they sure can talk about it with all that academic book learning. They can go sell tea in one of those chain tea companies’ -said Mr. Zhang, eccentric, long visioned, superb tea artisan.

Use 7 gms of leaves, said Mr. Zhang. Or you’ll never learn to…

Use 7 gms of leaves, said Mr. Zhang. Or you’ll never learn to appreciate the heaviness that is Wuyi tea. There are 3 main varietals, which are Shuixian, Dahongpao (Big Red Robe), and Rougui (loosely translated as Cinnamon). Of these three main groupings, there are 10 or so major sub varietals, like my favorites Water Golden Turtle, etc. Though Dahongpao is the famous fabled varietal of the region and the most imitated by exterior forgeries, in reality, the other two varietals are much more revered by the local connoisseurs. A side by side comparison of these three revealed the differences, using the mountain top spring water. After a long discussion over which water is the best ( mountain top, river, well, or bottled spring water), of which of course mountain stream water being the clear winner, and why well water is the worse ( no movement), and which water is in advisable when it rains, and much other in depth tea-geek discussions, I get to taste the three varietals side by side. These are the best of the best. The Rougui is from the Main Cliff area, the competition Shuixian is from 70 year old trees at the mountain peak, and the Dahongpao is the 2nd generation version. Never mind pedigree though. Some surprising results ensued.

I won’t reveal what the results were. We will all taste them together at the Harvest Party!

I get to taste Mr.Zhang’s competition entry, his Shuixian that…

I get to taste Mr.Zhang’s competition entry, his Shuixian that sports the most outrageous richness of the fragrance of osmanthus, citrus flowers, and orchids. Pervasive and silky, this ultra smooth oolong is intense, but not even close to the aggressive and dominating Rougui he served up next. Is he confident, I asked? Confident but not over confident, said Mr. Zhang. There are over a thousand entries, the top prize is a 180,000 rmb car! For me, the perk of enduring traveling in China is this moment.

An alternative view

Today I suddenly had an epiphany about the state of affairs in China. The U.S. was not devastated by any war in its land since the mid1800s. Europe and Japan began reconstruction after WWII, some 70 years ago. But China? China started waking up to an alternative economic model in the late 80s, and by the beginning of the new millennium, soared ahead ruthlessly without regard to repercussion, in an…

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