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Does this look like a hotel to you? it’s more like a pottery…

Does this look like a hotel to you? it’s more like a pottery barn! Called the Tung Ting Lodge, the one and only hotel on top of the mountain and in slight walking distance to the rolling tea hills and producers’ village. Mrs. Su, for example is exactly 5 minutes away. It’s convenient to stay at this rustically magnificient lodge when the tourists can go witness tea production at night. Except that there was, alas, no tea production this time due to the drought. Instead, we asked the owner to show us his pottery, and everything changed. Suddenly, we were not pesky tourists. We were appreciators of his craft, and that meant all the world to artisans like him in Taiwan, where money is not the point and appreciation the only thing that mattered. He gave us a tour of his collection; apparently exhibited in museums worldwide and students come far and near around the world to learn from him, he was actually a famous pottery master. To think that all these years, I brought tour groups here just to enjoy the view and be walking distance to the tea producers in the village must have been greatly insulting! Fortunately, my group this time were enthusiastic about glazes, and the difference between bean husk glazes and high fired celadon vs. ox blood. This tour is always unpredictable and culture is all around us!

The fog rolled in and all the world was a white milky haze….

The fog rolled in and all the world was a white milky haze. Hiking up steep inclines of 70 degrees at times, we huffed and puffed to the top of the world: the world of tea that is, at 2000 meters. Paying homage to the High Mountain oolongs is crucial to anyone considering themselves tea enthusiasts, and climbing a hill that high and that steep allows one to fully understand what ‘High Mountain’ means.
San Lin She, Taiwan, is home to huge purple blue bamboo groves, ginkgo trees and fragrant flowers, and one of the world’s most sought after oolong teas, with an intense floral fragrance all its own unforgettable character.
The tour group struggled to the top before the view was completely obscured. Thankfully the rolling curves of tea bushes were magnificent and plentiful in view for the strenuous hike to be worthwhile!

We tasted a crop harvested 2 days ago, and it was rich and floral. The considerable drought means the taste will be more intense than other years. Each cup of High Mountin oolong is evocative of the energy of the mountain, and all the drama and tragedies of a global weather changes that the tea plants struggle to adapt to. We taste and remember each differing year- like meeting a new friend each time, some more to our liking than others, all came with their own story.

The story goes that a tea farmer in Taiwan whose crop was…

The story goes that a tea farmer in Taiwan whose crop was devastated by little leaf hoppers sold his ‘ugly’ tea anyway, and at surprising reception. His villagers refused to believe that he’s made a fortune so unconventionally, and abused it as Pong Fong Cha, the bullshit tea. Later, the Queen of England gave it an alternate name of Taiwan Beauty.

The farmers I visited today, the Yangs, were quite honest. The crop made in early June was very very limited and was submitted to the competition. Through some error the entire crop was rejected and sent back. They would rather sell me the more abundant September crop, but, they admitted, there were no leaf hoppers in Sept. And they worry if any of it would sell, for those bugs are the secret to the fabulous taste of Taiwan Beauty. I was highly sympathetic, but bought that limited summer crop anyway, competition error or not. One’s palate beats one’s heart and sense of sympathy!

High Mountain Energy All the photos here are snap shots. By me,…

High Mountain Energy All the photos here are snap shots. By me, on location, within seconds, never staged. The point is not to impress anyone with the beauty of the scenery; these mountains speak for themselves. I am hoping to transport you along, because few agricultural products in the world live in such dramatically beautiful places as tea, and yet, most people will never be at these tea locations in their lives.

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