Tieguanyin

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Here you’ve got everything! High elevation! Misty cool air! Wild…

Here you’ve got everything! High elevation! Misty cool air! Wild trees and flowers! Top of the mountain far from pollution! EU, USDA, JAS Organic certified tea garden with hand pulled weeding! Beautiful young red-heart varietal Tieguanyin bushes! There’s more: Warbling birds! Wild boars! Huge snakes! Water jetting out between mountain rocks! Is that good enough for the Western Market? They asked. Nope, I said. Your prices need to be below $15 p/lb. Mr Lin : ‘but that’s how much we pay our tea pickers! We need to charge 5 times that amount!’ here’s how it works: For it to get to the West, first you have to sell it to Germany import monopoly. They will then export to the other countries like France, or the US. Then, your importer gets a cut, then your distributor, then your retailer, before it gets to you, the consumer. By then it’s 5-6 times its original cost. As a result, only low mountain, polluted flat areas with machine cut teas, can make it out West as ‘organic’. No problem, said Mr Lin. The highrollers in China now want good taste AND health, they can afford the good stuff, no need to export.

What to drink?

Being in Guangxi, China, is interesting. I rarely travel to non-tea related areas, though there are teas grown here, it is not with any particular significance. Contrarily, this is the province known for jasmine flowers, and indeed most of the jasmine teas were scented with flowers grown in this region. I have been invited back to come in the summer when the jasmine flowers are being harvested and…

No monkeys at work here

The hills are very, very steep. One with vertigo would not do well in this excursion of ours deep in the mountains of Siping, home of Tieguanyin. The elevation ranges from 800 meters to 1200 meters, some maybe more, and many newly planted hillsides feature clippings from 50 year old bushes from the area. Available wind from all directions, red clay soil full of iron, and severe trims down to…

Old tea, new tea

For me, Tieguanyin is a good representative of the transitional times in the history of our tea world. It is one of the oldest and most beloved of tea traditions, that Iron Bodhisattva tea, always elegant and refined, with that characteristic ‘yun’ note of long lingering fragrance in the palate. It was also, for hundreds of years, a generally darker and more highly oxidized style of oolong, with a…

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