Uji

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At Ippodo, which was, since 1717 AD, the oldest and most…

At Ippodo, which was, since 1717 AD, the oldest and most prestigious teashop in Kyoto. They treated us to a workshop today. It’s rare for me to visit a teashop and learn some great techniques of teaching about tea, in very approachable and accessible ways. The group tasted Gyokuro cold steeped or brewed at 50 C, how Sencha varies against Bancha, and saw a demonstration of how matcha can be whisked at supersonic speeds of 10 seconds or less. Seeing these teas in their cultural habitats were mind blowing experiences.

Shincha- meaning new tea, will not be available for another…

Shincha- meaning new tea, will not be available for another couple weeks but we will put some up for pre-order only. Shops everywhere celebrate this spring harvest in Kyoto but the actual amount of Shincha made available is very little. The rest- Gyokuro and Sencha, are to be aged until September. With any luck, I have a bottle of water from the Ujikawa(Uji lake) that is mineral rich from having been under the sea eons ago. That water, the Shincha, together, should make an event already itself. The focus on these teas are so different we may have to hold 3 separate events for each separate country ….

Hand rolled Shincha, auctioned for 88,888 yen a kilo ($888 usd)…

Hand rolled Shincha, auctioned for 88,888 yen a kilo ($888 usd) but only 400gm was produced. There were only 10 producers who could hand roll anyway. Mr. Taniguchi had us taste this inaccessible tea but gave us some to try for our harvest party and for our sommelier event. Producing the highest grade teas is his current mission, and many are going to be less than a kilo in production. That is perfect for us of course. Then, he takes out the top of the line Gyokuro from Nishikawa Sensei, and with cool water steeping, the stunning rich umami full mouthfeel, intense savory texture, a golden melted liquid- yume, meaning dream, was the word that came to mind.
Nishikawa Sensei follows the lunar calendar carefully for planting and harvesting. He uses, ready for this- ox intestines and bone, for fertilizer. As for pesticide- no worries. Pheromones are used to lure the male pests (mushi) away, and then not being able to mate, both male and female pest populations are now under control. Organic? No. Are we in danger? No way. Is it delicious? Much more so. No chemicals, lots of tradition. So…. We have to have some.

At Uji, right outside of Kyoto, the birthplace of tea in Japan….

At Uji, right outside of Kyoto, the birthplace of tea in Japan. The top grade Gyokuro are covered for 30 days prior to harvest. But here in Uji, it is shaded for not only 45 days, but with Yoshizu 葦簀, a river tube like plant for making window blinds in the ancient times. Here a cover for shading the tea nursery, a labor intensive but specialized method. Taniguchi san explains that when it rains through the straw tubes, the rain water is even sweeter tasting, nourishing the plants. Modern convenient black tarp like shades can’t compare.

Uji Cha, the best of Japan probably, but to me, most definitely….

Uji Cha, the best of Japan probably, but to me, most definitely. The balance of shibumi bitter and umami savory is bold, complex, memorable. The astringent greens of more commercialized regions are merely thin and bitter in comparison, with a sharp, shale aftertaste. The Uji teas are viscuous, broth like, with a mesmerizing dance that deserves meditation. But its exquisite liqueur is also unassuming, like the people who make it, and the mad river that runs through it- the Ujikawa- that’s clean, deep, and full of fossil minerality.

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