Tea Adventures

Let the games begin- I may have the ultimate eating entourage…

Let the games begin- I may have the ultimate eating entourage this trip. These folks can pack it away. Asians live to eat, but the Americans are catching up fast. I counted just 8 meals myself the other day, and today, as soon as the plane touched down, my tour group has not stopped eating long enough to breathe! In between, there is tea. Taiwan is the ultimate tea country after all and the reason for this tour….let’s see how much tea this group can drink. I had a glimpse of how much they can eat and it’s already frightening!

From 4 am to 6 am to 7am. Hong Kong will always be THE city to…

From 4 am to 6 am to 7am. Hong Kong will always be THE city to me, the city of all cities, that truly does not sleep at night, with an ever flowing traffic and on time trains by the minute, the most convenient city in the world, and inventor of the Octopus card, that remains the most useful single item a city needs to run smoothly. Or at least move the people along smoothly. Yet HK will never be what it once was, glamorous, cosmopolitan, a small big city of worldly small people. I say small, with affection. Hong Kongers live within limited ambitions of making a living, eating constantly and eating well, shopping for the latest name brands, and mahjong with their tight community of friends and family. No one has ambitions of saving the world or eliminating evil governments. They have little agendas, like, say, be allowed to speak Cantonese and English, have real history books instead of Communist revisions. Law and order, respect for public property, interpersonal civility. Really basic stuff. But with the onslaught of mainlanders and China rule, Kongers have gotten more aggressive, much more rude, if not downright cold. Where’s their future? They are on the road to obsolescence, if not downright slaughter. How can this vibrant, no nonsense, peaceful place of an international hub be preserved? It’s hard to fathom going from paradise to hell overnight when you haven’t done anything wrong.

Why should you care? Well, it is the only place in the world where ALL teas converge and all at the best quality yet.

Mandarin that, Beijing.

Tea Travels: Keeping it Real

Still seething from the plagiarism of my story on the Phoenix Ya Sai on this blog, I asked Mr. Zhang about the massive amounts of fake Dahongpao out there. Why, there is cheating at every level! Sometimes the tea pluckers will harvest your top mountain raw leaves but will turn in low mountain stuff. They look the same as raw leaves but once they are roasted, huge differences are obvious but too late. Outside producers will come in and open a production factory, registering with local authorities and even pass inspection. But the tea they make as Dahongpao? Not even close to being from this region. And what about the real tea from this region generically called Dahongpao? Blends of generic Wuyi low mountain stuff. No clear discernible taste of a single varietal. Blending is a cuss word here in Wuyishan, conjuring up wicked mercenary merchants. Telling a real story…

Tea Travels: Mr. Zhang of Wuyishan

       I get to taste Mr.Zhang’s competition entry, his Shuixian that sports the most outrageous richness of the fragrance of osmanthus, citrus flowers, and orchids. Pervasive and silky, this ultra smooth oolong is intense, but not even close to the aggressive and dominating Rougui he served up next. Is he confident, I asked? Confident but not over confident, said Mr. Zhang. There are over a thousand entries, the top prize is a 180,000 rmb car! For me, the perk of enduring traveling in China is this moment.  Use 7 gms of leaves, said Mr. Zhang. Or you’ll never learn to appreciate the heaviness that is Wuyi tea. There are 3 main varietals, which are Shuixian, Dahongpao (Big Red Robe), and Rougui (loosely translated as Cinnamon). Of these three main groupings, there are 10 or so major sub varietals, like my favorites Water Golden Turtle, etc. Though Dahongpao is the famous…

Even being at the paradise of tea farms, my tea buying adventures…

Even being at the paradise of tea farms, my tea buying adventures are still very strenuous. Today, I have been mosquito food for maybe the entire village of mosquitoes already. I am also fighting the desire to suddenly pass out into sleep, whilst drinking some of the strongest tea known to mankind. Mr. Zhang and various villagers drop in to find out about some real information they are curious about but can’t get, such as how much cars cost in the U.S. An average automobile that costs $35,000 USD can cost $75,000 easily in China. The middlemen make a killing. Yet their income tax is something like 3%. What about that election next year, they want to know? As long as it’s not a Bush again, they mused. Why hasn’t the U.S. attacked North Korea if they are so against Communist governments? Simple, I replied, without any basis for my opinion. No oil there, and it’s a monarchy, not a Communist country. It’s impoverished as hell and it will implode anyway, the tea villagers reasoned. The conversation turned once again to Xi Jin Ping’s crackdown on the corruption. Government offices can no longer buy 1000 RMB a Jin teas for office consumption( about $180 a lb). The offices I know in the U.S. serve Lipton teabags at 10 cents each…. Well, the cultural exchanges at every farm are always very interesting. According to the villagers, no foreigners ever come there to buy these authentic, but expensive, highly prestigious Wuyi teas. They buy fake stuff from import companies. No one even goes there from Hong Kong, or Beijing, for that matter. I might as well be Alien Visitation. I am teaching myself to master the final hurdle, I told them – the strongest tea in the universe, Rougui tea. For that reason alone, I just travelled some 10,000 miles, fighting mosquitoes and possible purse snatchers along the way. Why not? What would I be doing in the Bay Area today otherwise? Go get tomatoes at the farmer’s market?

Mr. Zhang decided to make the ultimate Dahongpao, the Dahongpao…

Mr. Zhang decided to make the ultimate Dahongpao, the Dahongpao Blend with the ingredients of Shuixian, Rougui, and Golden Mudan (a new Wuyi varietal), to make a superb confluence of fragrance, body, and intensity. Body and intensity are both characteristics of Wuyi teas that imitations can not approach. He would make the ulimate Dahongpao. But there you have noticed- there is no Dahongpao in it! Purposefully of course. Mr. Zhang laments the lack of knowledge of his region, the Bordeaux of tea. Everything is called Dahongpao by the outsiders, so unscrupulous merchants would blend stuff together or outrightly use raw material from other regions. Hardly anyone knows what Dahongpao tastes like anyway- and no wonder. The 2nd generation single varietal Dahongpao amount is so little to be had, no one would actually blend it with other teas. Or sell it to a nobody. And we are all nobodies when compared to the leaders of the Communist government. Dahongpao is inherently Leader Grade tea. So folks, whatever else is just stages of blends. As for Mr. Zhang’s version- it is superb. He could call it Dahongpao or Cow Dung tea. Using the best varietals he grows, this was an unforgettable tea. We will get to taste this side by side with a 2nd Generation Single Varietal Dahongpao. As well as his competition entrant Shuixian, which will quadruple the price if he wins…..

Navigate