Tea Adventures

The strongest tea in the universe, the 12,000 RMB (about $1950…

The strongest tea in the universe, the 12,000 RMB (about $1950 USD per lb), Rougui oolong from the Cow Fence Enclave. Yes, that’s the name of the most sought after micro-terroir of the Main Cliff 正岩 of Wuyi region. There was a little enclave in one of the vertical cliff areas, a farmer discovered that he could force his cows up there but they can’t come down and run off easily, a natural cow fence. So per serving is what, about $30? What a steal! Lasts about 20 infusions, so my per sip cost just went down to 45 cents! Well, math geniusness aside, I have the Communist government crackdown on corruption to thank. This leader grade stuff was never before accessible to commoners. Strong, aggressive, thick viscosity like broth, and stamina through all 20 infusions- this is the boxing champ of teas.

Still seething from the plagiarism of my story on the Phoenix Ya…

Still seething from the plagiarism of my story on the Phoenix Ya Sai on this blog, I asked Mr. Zhang about the massive amounts of fake Dahongpao out there. Why, there is cheating at every level! Sometimes the tea pluckers will harvest your top mountain raw leaves but will turn in low mountain stuff. They look the same as raw leaves but once they are roasted, huge differences are obvious but too late. Outside producers will come in and open a production factory, registering with local authorities and even pass inspection. But the tea they make as Dahongpao? Not even close to being from this region. And what about the real tea from this region generically called Dahongpao? Blends of generic Wuyi low mountain stuff. No clear discernible taste of a single varietal. Blending is a cuss word here in Wuyishan, conjuring up wicked mercenary merchants. Telling a real story and selling fake tea is what the Chinese called ‘hang a sheep’s head but selling dog meat’, referring to bait and switching. That is clearly the folks mentioned in the Forbes article. I forget the name of that tea company. Real story, fake stuff. Happens everywhere, starting from the source! Mr. Zhang and I, zealous tea people, won’t let that stop us. What are you doing with those Tea University interns? Still turning them down for internship there? ‘Of course, ’ he said. ‘’Wage war on paper’, is another favorite Chinese saying. They are not fit to make tea, but they sure can talk about it with all that academic book learning. They can go sell tea in one of those chain tea companies’ -said Mr. Zhang, eccentric, long visioned, superb tea artisan.

Use 7 gms of leaves, said Mr. Zhang. Or you’ll never learn to…

Use 7 gms of leaves, said Mr. Zhang. Or you’ll never learn to appreciate the heaviness that is Wuyi tea. There are 3 main varietals, which are Shuixian, Dahongpao (Big Red Robe), and Rougui (loosely translated as Cinnamon). Of these three main groupings, there are 10 or so major sub varietals, like my favorites Water Golden Turtle, etc. Though Dahongpao is the famous fabled varietal of the region and the most imitated by exterior forgeries, in reality, the other two varietals are much more revered by the local connoisseurs. A side by side comparison of these three revealed the differences, using the mountain top spring water. After a long discussion over which water is the best ( mountain top, river, well, or bottled spring water), of which of course mountain stream water being the clear winner, and why well water is the worse ( no movement), and which water is in advisable when it rains, and much other in depth tea-geek discussions, I get to taste the three varietals side by side. These are the best of the best. The Rougui is from the Main Cliff area, the competition Shuixian is from 70 year old trees at the mountain peak, and the Dahongpao is the 2nd generation version. Never mind pedigree though. Some surprising results ensued.

I won’t reveal what the results were. We will all taste them together at the Harvest Party!

An alternative view

Today I suddenly had an epiphany about the state of affairs in China. The U.S. was not devastated by any war in its land since the mid1800s. Europe and Japan began reconstruction after WWII, some 70 years ago. But China? China started waking up to an alternative economic model in the late 80s, and by the beginning of the new millennium, soared ahead ruthlessly without regard to repercussion, in an…

The diaspora

Everywhere I go there are mainland Chinese visitors in various forms of behavioral challenges. Here at Kansai Airport waiting for my flight to Hong Kong, a Chinese woman is shrieking at someone on her phone, in Mandarin. For like ½ hour already. I hope she misses getting on the same plane with me. All the flight attendants, in excessively polite and low speaking Japanese, were eyeing her with…

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