Tea Adventures

Early morning at Che Shi village(Red Rock village), last night’s…

Early morning at Che Shi village(Red Rock village), last night’s heavy rain will make today a dangerous climb to find the oldest Tieguanyin tree, and the dilapidated temple of legend. The tree was forgotten by the villagers since the road going there is so difficult, but a recently paved road nearby caused Mr. Lin, grand nephew of Mr. Yan, to recollect and then visit it. He was shocked at how old it was. I asked if there was an old temple nearby, and he said yes. Thus, the Indiana Jones of tea puts her head together and decided to go forth where no one has travelled, just to see which Tieguanyin legend had merit!
Seriously though, Mr. Lin specializes in the Golden Guanyin, a combined varietal of the regular Guanyin and Yellow Gold. I never thought much of it; fragrant, but the body a bit thin, but Mr. Lin seems to have made vast improvements in the last few years. Then he pulled out an experimental black tea/hong cha version made from the Golden Guanyin, and instantly, I must have every last piece he has left. Incredibly sweet and lively chocolate notes, the fragrance was unlike any other. I wrangled what was left, it being an experimental batch produced for the first time out of whim, Mr. Lin was happy that his samples were so well received that his 10kgs are now all gone. Folks, this will be an amazing treat! The world was good again after an all night war with the mosquitoes, whose victory was decidedly never mine.

Which village started Tieguanyin? Never mind they are all…

Which village started Tieguanyin? Never mind they are all related. Mr. Yan and his vast extended family occupies both villages, but the one depicted here is more prosperous. On Mr. Yan’s side boasts of Scholar Wong’s house, the legend of the would-be civil servant who made some tea with the bushes in his backyard because he needed a bribe for the civil exam. Legend was that he became a magistrate because Emperor Qin Long loved his tea and named it Tieguanyin. But now, the oldest Tieguanyin tree has just been found, and I will hike up to see it tomorrow. There’s even a very old temple. This corresponds to the legend of the old man, some 400 years ago, who prayed to Guanyin at his temple and subsequently, she appeared in a dream, pointed to a tea bush, that after waking, he tracked down and propagated. Of course the tea was named Guanyin tea. Now, that legend has always been just a legend I dismissed. Tomorrow though we’ll find out if it’s actually true, at least the temple and tree part. The villages are now locking horns. Which is the true founding legend and who gets to claim Tieguanyin as their invention?
It’s raining hard and slippery here at 800 meters at Anxi mountain range. Hopefully I won’t fall to my death tomorrow ascending much higher by foot. Or maybe, I’ll see some monkeys picking tea! Anything is possible at this point.

The wind dried duck, a stable food of the Cantonese. I feel like…

The wind dried duck, a stable food of the Cantonese. I feel like one today, strung by the neck, dried by pollution. Today in Guangzhou, I peered hard and found some white clouds, but that might be an illusion, the sight of a mirage before death. One never sees blue sky in most cities in China. It is incredibly hot, sticky, and vomit inducing weather. So muggy you feel woozy and faint, and after a few hours, I succumbed to throwing up. The 14 hour trip yesterday that should have taken 4 didn’t help. Living on one of the most impoverished, rural farms for a few days before that was no joke either. Yes folks, if I didn’t love tea so much, no one can pay enough for me to traipse around China’s grueling environment for so many years, where the unkindness of strangers can be depended upon, the cruelty of any government official a certainty, systemic breakdowns pervasive, jostling and queue cutting a sport, and second hand smoke nearly a blindfold.

I bid farewell at 5:30 am to get down from the mountain, chirping…

I bid farewell at 5:30 am to get down from the mountain, chirping birds, scent of flowers, swaying bamboos followed along. My new best friend was no where to be seen. Evidently, the toad has been following me around, pretending to be part of the chair or ground wherever I was. I didn’t realize why until noticing that I was not bitten by even one mosquito this whole time. Usually the swarm of mosquitoes create a cloud around me. The toad also realized that with me around, all he needed to do was sit by me and suck all the mosquitoes with his snapping tongue. No need to hunt. A symbiotic relationship. If only relationships with people were as simple and rewarding!

Mr. Dai says that his village in this glorious, beautiful mountain may soon vanish forever. The corrupt local government officials ensure that all aid, from United Nations level to Central Communist government levels to subsidize agriculture, create jobs, or at least pave some roads to go into the mountain have all been swallowed whole by the local government. I almost, almost told Mr. Dai that rather than bitterness against such blind injustice and corruption, ALL he needed to do was sacrifice and give up the Leader Grade Yellow tea!
Then I thought better.

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